Tuck into Russian beer and vobla across the road from the old KGB headquarters.

Our cover image this issue was taken in Glavpivtorg (ГлавПивТорг), a bar in Moscow that was once the old stomping ground of the Soviet politburo.

Set in the old Foreign Ministry building, it’s a great place to try vobla, a salt-dried Caspian Roach that you break off and chew while drinking beer.

In less sophisticated drinking establishments vobla is consumed straight from the plastic bag you bought it in.

But at Glavpivtorg, it is presented on a handcrafted wooden stand, in keeping with the richly panelled walls and deep leather chairs.

You also slice it with a beautifully ornate knife rather than tear it off with your bare hands.

At Glavpivtorg, there are still standards that have to be met.

On the top floor, just the other side of the Secretariat, you’ll find your way up to the ‘boss’s office’. It comes complete with an impressive desk and a phone with a direct line to the Kremlin.

It’s like the Cuban Missile Crisis never ended.

On the phone to Brezhnev In the war room at Glavpivtorg (Peter Moore)

How to visit

Where: Bolshaya Lubyanka Ulitsa 5, Kitai Gorod, Kitaigorod, Moscow

NB: The Glavpivtorg is currently closed for renovations.

Main image: Eating vorba in Bar Glavpivtorg (© Peter Moore)